Just installed 6 ton GXT Geocomfort unit.We have old 270 liters elec.water heater and new buffer tank also 270 liters.Plumbing was hooked up as per Geocomfort diagram which shows cold water IN from the top of the tank and hot water OUT to the bottom of the tank.Unit ran for whole week but pipes were not geting even worm.Called installer and told him that I have found on this site as well on the other site that water hook up is reversed .He called me next day to tell me that he will repipe lines where IN pipe will be from the bottom of the HWT and OUT pipe will go to the top of the HWT.After repiping water was just warm and it's been like that for two weeks.He told me that he was told by company rep that we can only gain 6 degrees Celsius from the desuperheater.This is not what I expected and I'm asking him to correct this.He claims that compressor is not workig right and not giving enough heat to warm the water.He showed me the AMP readings from the compressor which was on the wires:black wire 15A, red 12A and yellow (capacitor) 9A.
He says that according to the specs, compressor should draw 27A not 36A as it is doing now.Also compressor runs very noisy at startup than quites down for 10 seconds than again gets nosy for a 10 seconds and from than on it runs quiet.According to installer he will have to replace compressor and this will fix desuperheater problem.
Thus anyone have any ideas what could be the real problem?
Thanks

I'll let others comment on amps and piping, but if there is air in the DSH lines, the air needs to be purged in order for the DSH to operate. I re-purged our lines after some non-related plumbing work we had done recently.

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WF Envision NDV038 (packaged) & NDZ026 (split), one 3000' 4 pipe closed horizontal ground loop, Prestige thermostats, desuperheaters, 85 gal. Marathon.

Freeze, Mr. Imposter! ...and please STEP AWAY from the ammeter.

...now, what have you done with the Real™ contractor?

Looby

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One measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions.

We did air purging and made sure that pump is running.
Just had contractor in .He had support from Enertech and it turned out that TXV is not working.I'm not A/C mechanic and not sure how that effects operation of Desuperheater but according to Enertech , problem will be solved once TXV is replaced.
Very happy with Enertech quick response,hope they are right with diagnostics.TXV will be replaced next week and I'll have an update.

To answer to Loby,
Don't know what your question is but just to let you know that my field is electricity and I had to troubleshoot for the contractor since I think I know more about electrical troubleshooting than him.
Please Loby be specific what you need to know and I will give you an answer.
Thanks

Several things going on here:

1) One does not add up amp readings from the three compressor leads and compare the sum with the nameplate RLA or FLA figures.

2) That you are giving temps in *C suggests a Canadian installation. That means EWTs are likely quite low, which in cooling mode makes for very very high efficiency but a bit less superheat for hot water. That you have a buffer tank means you should still be able to gather useful heat for domestic hot water.

Even with low Canadian loop EWT you should still be able to bring a buffer tank of 10 - 15 degree water up to 30+ or so on a warm day with 4-6 or more hours of system operation, regardless of which way the desuper water lines were plumbed to the buffer tank. The desuper will heat the buffer tank water 3-5 degrees per pass, but as the buffer tank water makes multiple trips through the desuper it gets progressively warmer.

If there was no perceptible temperture difference between desuper water inlet and outlet while geo unit is running , then either the desuper pump isn't running or it is air locked.

3) I and others here prefer to inject desuper water into the boiler drain of the buffer tank, rather than pulling from there so as to reduce chance of pulling sediment into desuper pump and heat exchanger. Pull from the buffer tank cold water inlet with the dip tube left intect, return via the boiler drain and let natural convection lift warmer water up to the top of the buffer tank whose hot water outlet connects to the cold water inlet of the main tank.

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Curt Kinder

www.hoviscustombuilders.com

Without data, you have but an opinion.
No thing done well is as simple as it seems

Thanks for your suggestions engineer.
This is Canadian installation .Are you telling me that water temp.from desuper heater
can heat only up to 30 *C and that is the highest temp. that we can get out of it.
I was told that my desuper water issue will be solved once TXV is replaced.
Don't have any stats on EWT @ LWT until I get it from my contractor next week.

Don't take 30*C as a hard limit - it is a SWAG based on an educated guess about your EWTs and run times. Daily hot water use will have a dramatic impact as well. I like to see a buffer tank sized for a full day's typical hot water use.

I have a somewhat similar system in Florida; as a courtesy I will translate to metric:

I have a 3 ton 2 stage WaterFurnace Envision package system that is essentially locked in low stage, so its actual output is about 2.25 tons. I have open loop 22*C EWT and 29*C LWT, although at times I pinch flow down to make 36*C LWT to fill a kiddie pool. That increases compressor power and discharge temperature which in turn increase amount and 'quality' of superheat available for recovery.

I have twin 300 liter water tanks with one configured as a preheat accumulator. This time of year with afternoon temps around 35*C I see very long run times 12-15 hours. That provides preheat tank temps of 40-45*C. Cold water enters at 25*C summer, 20*C winter.

I suspect a system up north will have somewhat lower loop EWT in summer than mine and dramatically lower domestic water EWT. I would expect shorter run times in summer than what we experience in Florida. All of those are factors in my guess of 30*C. That your system is much larger may well result in hotter preheat water, but I also guess that run times are much lower, especially if the system is sized to meet a load higher in winter than summer.

At the moment we've had a rainy afternoon - to preserve my sanity I have my two small children whiling away time in the master suite soaking tub. The relevance of that is that my preheat tank is down to 30*C with little immediate prospect of long run times to reheat it, so I'm looking at an extra kwh or two for hot water tomorrow.

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Curt Kinder

www.hoviscustombuilders.com

Without data, you have but an opinion.
No thing done well is as simple as it seems